Patriotism at its best is at borders not in cricket matches, not in movies, not in diplomacy politics. Billions of Indians are living peacefully each moment because few of our brothers and sisters in uniforms living their life in extreme horrible weather conditions standing tall along borders without blinking an eye for protecting India from any possible threats. War stories and movies gave us some insight on their struggle, their life and most importantly their spirit, their pride for being an Indian soldier guarding the border.
Why & Where is Wagah Border
Getting a chance to join the Indian border security forces for a few hours at an India–Pakistan border and encountering a face-to-face action with Pakistan soldiers, in the presence of many Indians and Pakistanis, will make anyone feel like being part of a mini border war. It was literally so — though the fight among the public from both sides was only for verbal supremacy.
That was Wagah Border along Pakistan, where the Beating Retreat Ceremony is offered. A place in Punjab along National Highway #01, 22 kms from Amritsar, or approximately 500 kms from Delhi depending on the starting point.
From the day I settled in Delhi, the show-off at Wagah Border between the Indian and Pakistan armies was one thing I wanted to witness live. So, when I realized that it was only a half-an-hour journey from Amritsar in a shared auto-rickshaw, my happiness knew no bounds. Three consecutive off-days from office during the Dussehra festival finally came my way to proceed to Amritsar to witness it.
Punjab – A Land Shaped by Valor; Wagah Its Perfect Symbol
Punjab — a name that infuses patriotic feeling the moment we hear it. Despite many Sardar jokes, we always remember this place for the bravery of its proud sons, famous since the fight for India’s independence began around a century ago. They had a defining role in the history of India’s freedom. Punjab is also a large state bordering Pakistan, and no wonder why it is strategically so important and sensitive.
A military parade known as the Beating Retreat Ceremony is held every evening for around 45 minutes at Wagah Border, performed by Indian and Pakistan soldiers. Facilities are arranged on both sides for the general public to witness this unique military exercise. The event is actually the closing of the international gates on the border line of each territory, which stand side by side, followed by the lowering of both national flags through a synchronized and choreographed military exercise every evening.
Half an Hour to the Border, A Lifetime of Emotion
From Amritsar, auto and taxi services for Wagah Border start around 3 pm only, and the place from where they start was so crowded that it was very difficult to identify and locate the previously booked driver. After finding him with a bit of struggle, he dropped me at a place where people from all parts of India had gathered like a mob — faces filled with pride. It looked like they were going to the border to fight a war, holding small tricolours in hand, chanting “Jai Hind,” and we too joined the crowd towards the security screening gate.
Strange feelings while standing in the separate queue for men — it was neither like a picnic nor a sports event. Watching everyone — from kids to grownups, rich and poor, men and women, Sikhs, Hindus, Muslims, Christians, Jains — happily allowing their faces to be painted in the Indian tricolour was overwhelming. Everyone looked thrilled to the core at getting a chance to come so close to Pakistan soil, visible from inside.
Friendly Smiles at the Border by Battle-Ready Soldiers
The soldiers on duty guiding visitors from the security gate all the way inside seemed friendly, with smiling faces. Those moments were wonderful as they welcomed and treated everyone like guests. Once inside, people were screaming and scrambling for a perfect location from whatever spaces were left unoccupied to witness this rare exhibition by Indian soldiers in uniform. Few people were lucky — or perhaps aware of seating arrangements — seated very close to the parade area, while we were in the gallery. (During my next visit, I made sure my small group got seats in those rows.)
As we sat and relaxed for a while, I realized that our soldiers in the parade area were standing just a throw-away distance from Pakistan soil. A few people were also seen in the Pakistan visitors’ gallery. Those familiar with the horrible stories of Partition through books and movies are well aware of Lahore and its importance, and most visitors on the Pakistan side had come from Lahore, just as Indians had travelled from Amritsar.
Air-Kicking Practice & a Glance at the Indo–Pak Border Fence
Some soldiers, including a few women, were practicing different moves for the retreat ceremony behind the outpost — long steps, legs stretched as high as possible. At a distance, wired fencing across desert land was visible. On the other side, across the Pakistan gate, many Pakistanis too had assembled in galleries to witness this patriotic show. BSF soldiers for this event must be selected based on height, impressive presence, and striking physique.
Patriotic songs filled the air, and even before the ceremony began, people were shouting “Bharat Mata Ki Jai” and “Hindustan Zindabad.” It was also seen that a few selected groups of kids and ladies from spectators were invited to dance and sing along with patriotic songs already playing. Some lucky ones were allowed to hold the flag and run up to the gates — literally handshake distance from Pakistan soldiers — and return. Guards kept requesting everyone to make the “Bharat Mata Ki Jai” sound louder and louder. These moments were more than enough to engage everyone for almost one and a half hours before the official ceremony began.
Electrifying Trailer Before the Show with a Mini India
The strength of visitors on the Pakistan side kept increasing by the time the ceremony started, and now it felt like a competition — which side could scream louder patriotic chants. It looked like one BSF staff member was assigned to manage the crowd and guide visitors on when to chant and when to raise their voices. Everyone shouted back to neutralize every Pakistani sound each time, roaring their hearts out.
So far, I had come across the word “electrifying” — and oh boy, here it was. Witnessing an atmosphere of absolute, priceless spectacle, with thousands of Indians from across the country assembled at the Pakistan border shouting together in one voice “Hindustan Zindabad,” under the guidance of Indian soldiers, was more than anyone might have dreamed earlier. It is practically impossible to put those scenes into a few words or sentences.
Action at the Border Gate with Pakistan Soldiers
The guards were directed to start the event, and soon Indian soldiers marched towards the gate — the same happening on the Pakistan side. Both sets of soldiers opened their respective border gates at the same time, in the same movement. They had a brief handshake before returning to their starting points. Then another pair marched with lightning speed, performing high kicks along the road. The same was mirrored on the Pakistan side. A few women guards were also involved in this march, and we could hardly feel any difference between them and men during the exercise, which lasted around 45 minutes.
A Symphony of Synchronized March
Each movement of the soldiers was choreographed and practiced to perfection. The same sequence was followed by women soldiers marching towards the gate in synchronized movement. The program continued with the final event — lowering of flags, folding them carefully through a predefined sequence of precise movements in each step till folding was complete. The guards then brought back the flag in hand, walking in carefully measured small steps to maintain respect to the national flag, finally taking it to the guard room. After this, one more march towards the gates followed for closing them, declaring the end of the ceremony and symbolically marking peace at the border for the evening.
Farewell to Wagah Border — Memories for a Lifetime
By the time the programme finished, not much energy was left — but nevertheless everyone had happy faces after watching an awe-inspiring entertainment extravaganza unfold in a surreal atmosphere. Through this, patriotism infused into every Indian’s blood by the incredible performance of the Border Security Guards in front of thousands of Pakistanis and the Pakistan military force. Even if it was only for a few hours, every minute spent with soldiers at the India–Pakistan border was worth a lifetime of memories.
Click Here to read a poem on the same story
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