A mountain peak in which a saint from the southernmost state of India travelled all the way in the 8th century, meditated there, blessed by the appearance of a Goddess in front of him at the end of it, attained excellence in wisdom and made memorabilia for the same, walked all the way with the Goddess to his native place.
This peak is still favourite of many people to visit the Sarvanja peetha that the saint has been built and a cave known as Chithramoola cave little further away. One of the holy rivers of this state namely sowparnika also part of this Kudajadri from where it originates. The famous Mookambika temple is also connected to this place which is the base station from where most of the people start their journey to this serene location.
This is about Adi Shankara, the scholar who travelled the length and breadth of India around 1200 years ago with preaching Adwaita Vedanta and one of the most beautiful peaks in south India namely Kudajadri. Kudajadri is a scenic place situated in the Shimoga district of Karnataka state lying on the slope of western ghats. It is 13th highest peak which is around 147 km from Mangalore and 315 km form Bangalore. Most of the people who visit this place are those coming after having Goddess Mookambika Devi’s darshan.
A visit to this place also becomes memorable for the off-road jeep ride to reach till 2 km away from Sarvanja peetha which is believed to be the place where Adi Shankara has meditated and got enlightenment and Chithramoola around 500 mts further from Sarvanja peetha which is Sowparnika river’s starting area. The long walk of two kilometres to visit Sarvanja Peetha is one of the memorable parts of Kudajadri trip. And if not for the jeep ride this is a perfect place for trekkers too and lot of people are used to visit Kudajadri for the same.
It was still early morning when I came out after darshan of Goddess Mookambika Devi and the Kudajadri hills illuminated with golden rays of the rising sun lying as a backdrop of temple had been one of the most pleasant views outside. The combination of Temple and hills seemed to be complimenting each other for its divinities each place have in its own.
As I walked down the normally busy street where jeeps are lined and waiting for their turn to get 8 passengers to Kudajadri was relatively empty. Kudajadri, one of the Karnataka government’s heritage sites was not in our itinery but the invitation from a driver to fill the vacant spaces in his jeep turns out to be our time to visit the place where Adi Shankara made meditation and got his enlightenment.
The distance from kollur to the place till the jeep reaches is approximately 30 kms and most of the jeeps will halt for few minutes in a small junction for breakfast, refreshment etc. It was breakfast time, and we had some food then proceeded to the base location for hiking to Sarvanja peetha and Chithramoola which was around 10 kilometres approximately. Further journey after a while after crossing a forest check post was a type of ride that experienced for the first time knowing as off-road drive which only some expert drivers can manage, the reason why only the local jeeps are allowed to ply on this route.
The road – if we can call it so – was bumpy with no particular width or profile or level or gradient in any direction. Steep curves that turn out to be hair pin bends made to cover the ascend over the hill was looked very risky for us at many locations, whereas the drivers were cool though. The travel through the artificial path formed on the ground due to daily movement of jeeps with bump like area on both sides was fun as well as dangerous. The natural beauty on both sides was something that cannot be missed but may not be enjoyable too as it was hard to leave the attention given for holding on to the seat from moving out from seat due to inconsistent road section for the entire stretch.
No wonder then, as this place is famous for people who loves to trek. Trekking to Kudajadri through two popular routes becomes a double delight for such people because of the matchless stunning beauty offered by nature. Streams and a beautiful waterfall on the way are value addition too to enjoyment during the trek.
The off-road journey of around 7-10 kms was extreme to say the least and was satisfying too from another perspective by experiencing a travel in such uneven, indifferent road profile in a hill that climbed several feet up. Though some metalling work was initiated to level the road to an extent but put on hold by the authority due to some resistance from the local drivers that seemed to be a blessing so that we were lucky to experience such a travel.
The jeep ride ended up in a small parking area in a place namely Valuru which is known as Moolasthanam of Goddess Mookambika Devi having three individual temples and a priest’s house. From here it is another 1.5 to 2kms of hiking through one of the most splendid locations of south where greenery, forests, valleys, sky, clouds intermingle with divinity and peace to have an experience of a lifetime to any traveller who are lucky to be here.
A visit to theses temple is not mandatory but, in a place, where Goddess Mookambika Devis’ presence was believed to be existed, then it was an automatic choice to have darshan and do some pooja on the three temples before the long walk or trek towards Sarvanja peetha.
Soon after few minutes of walking through some rough area the path had a U turn curve and as we covered it and reached the other side of the hill, the whole area appeared like an entirely different world that was no match for the place left few minutes before where the temple was or the base station. The peacefulness of the place, the cool ambience, the vast expanse of lovely greenery, with white clouds that looked to be moving forward in the backdrop of clear blue sky has infusing some potential energy for climbing up the hike towards those historically as well as mythologically important locations within the western ghat.
The marvellous ghats with different sizes and shapes which mostly covered in fog and sometimes visible with a waterbody far away was pure bliss to enjoy the nature in its perfect un-adultered condition. The changing view after every few steps or meters made the hiking as refreshed as it started. The long walk was never tiring despite sun rays was hot and made uneasiness in between, but there was something to enjoy in each moment providing everyone many pictures of beautiful portrait of this magnificent landscape as we moved on.
While it had been practically tough to enjoy the real beauty of this serene and scenic locations during the off-road trip in jeep, instead here it gave a choice for us to appreciate the different geographical features of the 13th highest peak of the western ghat by spending as much time provided returning to the jeep within the time allowed. It looked like the sceneries were such that photo from even an ordinary mobile camera will get you a high-quality pixel portrait.
As the scenes kept changing every now and then so the track that we were walking too. From steep hike to vast open area to narrow path where valley is just few meters away on the side to made out track through the woods requiring special effort to cross the fallen trees and such made the walk quite interesting and fun. Finally, at a faraway place a small hut like area with stone pillars was visible that are black in color where Adi Shankara has meditated and believed to be got enlightenment dating as back as in 9th century.
We arrived at the location which is known as Sarvanja peetha that looks like a small temple or may be exactly a temple, a temple of knowledge. A tiny building with black stones having two pillars outside facing to the path we were walking standing alone inside the remote area within these hills made it looks like something special being the only structure in the ghat which is not provided by nature.
First time after started the trekking we were in a crowded place, as many people were occupied the available spaces in this small temple. Few were sitting in the open area and the small opening to the room was looked congested with people trying to enter and exit. Selfies and photoshoots too were happening at the different locations of a place which is believed to be made in 8th century by Adi Shankara.
Adi Shankara was a cultural icon or a monk from south India lived in the 9th century who is famous as the founder of Adwaita Vedanta. From the southernmost state of Kerala where he was born, he traversed to many parts of India spreading the essence of Hinduism. From south he travelled all the way to the northernmost place of India, ie Srinagar of Jammu Kashmir where a temple in his name is still exist which is basically a Lord Shiva one where he had been to on his long spiritual journey.
He was believed to be defeated many scholars in philosophical debate there and opened the southern door of the temple. Then he made his presence in another part which is one of the toughest terrains and having severe climatic adversities being the place on Himalaya mountains – even in 21st century – namely Badrinath and Kedarnath. As per the history books Adi Shankara left to abode from Kedarnath, in the memory of which a statue of him has been recently installed on the Kedarnath temple.
After walking around the temple, we waited few minutes for some people to leave so that it would be helpful to experience the sarvanja peetha, the place of knowledge with some peace and calm atmosphere. The wait was worth too as sitting on the stones outside after a quick look inside of the temple felt like a learning experience that acquiring knowledge is not an easy task by thinking about the struggle for Adi Shankara to reach here many thousand years ago for getting his enlightenment. The difficulty in trekking through the peaks to reach here was also a reminder to all that there are no short cuts but the path to attain the knowledge remains always difficult.
Sitting in the temple floor and a quick look around has no comparison to the world where ordinary human beings spend their day today life or being in a place, which nature has been preserving its original size and shape except for human being’s presence to visit this historically important locations gave a surreal experience, especially due to the fact that this has been constructed in 8th century.
Walking further 500 meters or so through a more congested pathway with thick forest will reach another holy place inside Kudajadri hills known as Chithramoola cave which is also known as Shankaracharya temple. Mookambika temple is visible from here and this is also the place from where the river sowparnika originates. Few water passages are around the cave and a beautiful waterfall nearby. The different sceneries offered by the nature in this western ghats was so marvelous that would remain in the memory for quite a long time.
This cave is also connected to the life of Adi Shankara’s expedition in the western ghats in 9th century. It is believed that he had meditated and did penance in the Chithramoola cave and Shri Mookambika devi appeared before him here. The cave is above ground level, and some effort is required by climbing up the ladder for entering inside the cave. Experiencing such a cave which consist of a Shiva Idol was another moment in the trip life to cherish forever.
While walking back with some beautiful and divinely blended memories of this location, one thing amused me a lot like many others might be. How a young fellow Shankaracharya in his youth were able find this location in eighth century and constructed the Sarvanja peetha. As it written in some books, we need to believe too when the contribution from him for the Indian religions space was so immense through his works in his short span of life of 39 years.
Watching endless terrains of hills in different heights covered in mist on one side and greenish and bare hills on the other side between which a plain walkway through we returned to the parking area after visiting the place where Adi Shankara has got enlightenment was something that would remain in the memory forever which can be remembered without seeing any photographs taken during the journey.
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